Eastport resurgence: Downeast city is growing cruise ship market, site of new commerce

In June 2020, the city of Eastport hosted Norwegian Cruise Lines’ 785-foot ship Oceania Riviera when is was looking for refuge during the pandemic.

“We somewhat infamously housed the Riviera for almost two months,” says Chris Gardner, Eastport Port Authority’s director.

“That was really a turning point for the port. They had crew aboard who couldn’t get off. So we brought them in.”

Over the past two decades, Eastport — an island city bordering Canada — has become a stop for a handful of small to mid-size cruise ships during the spring and fall. The Riviera, with 11 passenger decks, towered over the small downtown.

The arrival highlighted the port’s ability to host large cruise ships, which had been identified by the city and the port authority as a desirable market sector. Cruise lines noticed.

“Last year we ‘auditioned’ the Zaandam,” says Gardner. “People were nervous: ‘Oh my gosh, a couple of thousand people will be in Eastport. What will we do? The island will flip over.’”

Photo / Courtesy Leo Kowal, Eastport Port Authority

When the city last year successfully “auditioned” the Zaandam, Holland America’s 781-foot ship, “That’s when we knew we could do this,” says Chris Gardner.

But the visit of Holland America’s 781-foot ship, with a capacity for 1,432 passengers, was a success.

“We planned a coming-out party, so to speak,” says Gardner. “The weather was the star of the day. Not a cloud, 68 degrees. People got off the boat; businesses were ready.”

After the boat left, the port authority heard from Holland America that the stop was the highest-rated on the itinerary, Gardner says.

“That’s when we knew we could do this,” he says.

Strong attributes

Eastport is in something of a resurgence.

The city's attributes include a strong cargo capacity with the deepest natural seaport in the continental U.S. There’s a robust fishing fleet. The arts and culture scene is anchored by the Tides Institute & Museum of Art, Eastport Arts Center, numerous galleries and art-focused events such as the Mermaid and the Witches of Eastport festivals. A historic district encompasses a five-block stretch of downtown Water Street.

Building on those assets, the city is marketing itself as a stop for more and larger cruise ships. And the downtown is attracting a number of new businesses.

There’s synergy among the sectors.

Photo / Courtesy Jesse Shaw

From left, local musicians John McCurdy, Denise McCurdy, Andy Radin and Joan Lowden busk on Water Street for the Enchanted Princess in September.

“As much as I say the weather was the star of the day, the community was,” Gardner says of the cruise ship scene. “The community is very authentic and welcoming. When you get off in Eastport, it’s different from getting off in Cancun or Cozumel. Not taking anything away from those places, but in Eastport, for that day, this town shows up for you.”

Earlier this year, Princess Cruises’ “Love Boat”-themed Enchanted Princess, carrying approximately 3,900 passengers, tested the waters.

John Padgett, Princess Cruises’ president, subsequently posted on LinkedIn: “Eastport is known as the eastern most city in the U.S., but really should be known as the most WELCOMING port city in the WORLD! The enthusiastic welcome the Eastport community (pop. ~1500) delivered to Princess is beyond description!”

Photo / Courtesy Leo Kowal, Eastport Port Authority

The Enchanted Princess visited Eastport in September, prompting the line’s president to post that Eastport “should be known as the most WELCOMING port city in the WORLD!”

The ship’s arrival was festive, say Michael Novack and Craig Bruce, who last year opened a furniture and home decor store, the White Birch Exchange, at 28 Water St.

“It’s exciting. It’s a whole atmosphere,” says Novack. “Everyone is happy and welcoming. A lot of people had never heard of Eastport before. We want people to know what Eastport is all about.”

The experience was “very positive,” says Joan Lowden, a member of the Eastport Chamber of Commerce board and marketing committee who designed and implemented the “Visit Eastport” website.

“The important thing is finding that sweet spot in terms of the volume of ships where it feels festive, businesses benefit and it doesn’t become a burden on residents. Right now, we’ve got a nice balance.”

New businesses

The community includes long-established businesses, such as the century-old WaCo Diner and Raye’s Mustard, and new arrivals.

When Lowden moved there in 2017, many downtown storefronts were empty, she says. “In the past couple of years, there’s been a huge renaissance with an influx of new businesses joining long-time business,” Lowden continues.

A former Silicon Valley software consultant, Lowden is also a performing and visual artist who offers walking tours of the historic downtown to cruise ship passengers. The main reason she was attracted to Eastport was its “vibrant arts and cultural scene.”

What’s bringing new business?

Photo / Courtesy Mary Ann Wiles

Arts and culture, such as Sunday afternoon jazz at Phoenix Fine Wines, are considered a draw to the downtown.

“We got a little boost from COVID, when people were leaving the cities and looking for opportunities to live a quieter life — and we had affordable waterfront property available,” says Lowden. “So we had quite an unexpected bump, especially in people from away, either retired or looking for a second career.”

Wine and beer

That includes Laura Stanczyk, who acquired a 137-year-old building at 73-75 Water St. in 2020, renovated, leased space to Horn Run Brewing and opened short-term rentals and Phoenix Fine Wines, a wine bar and retail shop with trivia nights and live music.

Photo / Courtesy Laura Stanczyk

Laura Stanczyk saw plenty of opportunity for a wine bar, thanks to the city’s year-round population and reputation as a cultural hub.

Stanczyk, a casting director in Manhattan, enjoyed visiting Maine.

With her son, “We drove into Eastport, I had a Rosie’s hotdog and said, ‘I could live here.’”

She saw plenty of opportunity for a wine bar, thanks to the city’s year-round population and its reputation as a cultural hub.

“My favorite kind of evening is having five to 10 customers and it feels like an extension of my living room,” Stanczyk says. “The nice thing about a place like this is you really get to know people. It’s very ‘Cheers’-like.””

Lisa and Jeff Smith started Horn Run Brewing in 2021, then added an eatery. The couple, Calais and Eastport natives respectively, loved visiting breweries and decided to start their own.

Initially looking at Calais, they felt nothing was right. A friend introduced them to Stanczyk, who had recently acquired 75 Water St. and had space available. Lately the couple has expanded to Perry, the next town over.

Photo / Courtesy Horn Run Brewing

Lisa and Jeff Smith say Horn Run Brewing is up to 180 ‘mug club’ members since opening in Easport in 2021.

“We have quite a local following throughout the off-season,” says Lisa. “We’re up to 180 ‘mug club’ members — those are our loyal diehard following.”

Customers embrace the pub as a gathering and meting space. Open year-round, revenues have climbed at least 30% every year, mostly due to tourists and festivals.

Photo / Courtesy Laura Stanczyk

In 2020, Laura Stanczyk relocated from Manhattan to renovate a 137-year-old building at 73-75 Water St., now home to her wine bar and brew pub.

“We made a brand for ourselves,” says Jeff. “Brewing and tap rooms are really new to this area.”

Windows and décor

Business startup hasn’t necessarily been easy, the couple notes.

“When we were opening, the historic nature of our building had to be addressed just to meet public safety guidelines,” says Lisa.

Several years ago, Micah Winship opened a historic window restoration company, Overstory Restoration. He heads the parks and recreation committee.

Coming from Buffalo, N.Y., he and his partner had visited Eastport years before and loved it. Starting a business in the remote city is both easy and challenging, he says.

“Getting materials here — there are certain types of wood that aren’t available through local lumber suppliers,” he says. “On the other hand, it’s a really supportive community. And there’s no shortage of old houses here.”

Novack and Bruce’s White Birch Exchange evolved from a garden décor online business from their previous St. Andrew’s, New Brunswick, home; then a brick-and-mortar store in Calais, adding home décor and furniture.

Photo / Courtesy White Birch Exchange

The owners of the White Birch Exchange view locals as their bread-and-butter, but added items for a burgeoning market of cruise ship passengers.

But trade in Calais wasn’t great. Through word-of-mouth, they learned of space available in Eastport, moving there last year.

“Our first week in Eastport, we sold out of almost every stick of furniture we had,” says Novack.

The couple picks up previously owned items, refinishes them, then prices for locals.

“My thought was, ‘Let’s go for the locals. They’re going to be our bread and butter,’” says Bruce.

Tourists aren’t going to buy furniture, he notes. So they explored smaller goods, particularly for cruise passengers.

Photo / Courtesy White Birch Exchange

From left, Michael Novack and Craig Bruce opened the White Birch Exchange last year and sold out of almost every stick of furniture in the first week.

“We drove to other port towns that receive cruise ships, and went through their stores to see what they were selling,” says Bruce. “We found a couple of lines we really liked and started carrying those items as well” such as nautically themed items like whales and boats that easily tuck into luggage.

“It’s vital as a store owner to assess what’s going on in your community,” says Bruce.

‘Intentional destination’

There are challenges to attracting new businesses and residents. Eastport has a health center but the nearest hospital is in Calais, 30 miles away. Lodging infrastructure is limited. Properties are being converted to vacation rentals, taking away from affordable rentals.

It can be hard to find employees or retail goods. For Stanczyk, finding certain types of wine means driving several hours to Ellsworth or Portland.

“You don’t stumble upon Eastport by accident,” notes Lowden. “It’s an intentional destination.”

“Intention” underpins the cruise market, too.

“You think cruising in Maine, everyone thinks Bar Harbor,” says Gardner.

When Gardner was hired in 2007, one task was finding a way to make Eastport better known to the cruise industry.

The next five years saw a handful of small to mid-size ships. The 2014 collapse of the breakwater, the predominant pier adjacent to the downtown, interrupted the flow.

“The industry kind of stopped talking to us, because they knew we’d be shut down for a period of years,” he says.

When reconstruction was finished, the plan was to restart cruise ship visits in 2020.

That didn’t happen. But the Riviera situation proved the port could accommodate larger ships. That resulted in the Zaandam’s visit in 2023, then the Enchanted Princess last month.

The port authority maintains a long-time presence at cruise industry trade shows and a relationship with CruiseMaine.

“We’ve always been the little port that could,” Gardner says. “And everyone said ‘Yeah, but you’re just a small place.’ When the Riviera came in, that got us more mainstream. The industry recognizes that Eastport puts its money where its mouth is.”

For 2025, Eastport has nearly 20 ships scheduled; about half in the smaller range of 400 to 500 feet, with 300 to 500 passengers, coming in the spring and fall. In 2025, for the first time, the city will see ships from June through August, one arriving every 10 to 12 days.

Planning the market from the get-go could be key to Eastport’s success, says Gardner.

“We’re a one-pier, one-boat kind of town,” says Gardner. “Our approach will always be one boat. By doing that, we can properly manage this.”

He adds, “We are living in a gem. All we need to do is make sure people understand what kind of gem it is.”

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