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February 25, 2008

Cloth shop | A chat with Mary Zarate, founder of Z Fabrics in Portland.

Founded: November 2006
Employees: None
Startup costs: $8,000
Revenue, year one: $17,000
Projected revenue, year two: $23,000
Contact: 773-1331
316 Congress St., Portland 04101
www.zfabric.com

How would you describe what you do?
It's a fabric shop catered to people who have a unique sensibility, that are creative, that have a more contemporary sense of taste. There was a period where I think there were a lot of fabric shops around and then that kind of stopped ˆ— [home economics is] not in the high schools, and so it just changed. The quilters kept the fabric shops alive, but the downside of that was that people that liked to make their own clothes ˆ— they kind of lost out.

So because I like making my own clothing, I really have that in mind. I wanted fabric that I could turn into garments and neat bags and just cool stuff for my apartment. And it really wasn't out there and I talked to a lot of people in my circle, who are all very creative, and we were all complaining about the same thing. I got to this point where I started thinking I wanted to open my own business and it made sense to me.

How has the shop changed since it opened?
When I first opened, it was tiny. I opened this on a shoestring. I knew there was no way I was going to be able to compete with the bigger quilting shops, and I really kept in my mind that I would focus on stuff that was really unique ˆ— prints that you couldn't get anywhere else, in Portland or in Maine. I also wanted to make sure that it was reasonably priced because [what's] really important to me is keeping it open for everybody.

So how it's changed is, I'm a Brother dealer, so I sell [Brother brand] sewing machines, I'm giving classes here on Wednesday nights. And little by little I keep on packing it with more fabric. This year I'm going to make the big push and we're going to get denim in here and we're going to get other silk in here. But the sewing machine was a big jump.

Why?
Well, it was a large investment. And also it made me kind of feel like I was playing with the big boys because [the company is] really well known. They sponsor "Project Runway." They're all over the country. It's just everywhere.

So getting involved with Brother, it's definitely made me step it up a little bit. All of a sudden I was doing an insane amount of research on how to use the machines. I need to know how these embroidery machines work and how the sergers work. So it's been amazing personally to step it up within my own craft. And also, in order to be just there for my customer, if they have a question.

The way it works, too, is that because it's such a large ticket item, I can make my month's rent in one machine [sale], where [otherwise] it would take me yards of fabric.

Where do you find your fabric?
I go to trade shows and that's where I found most of my initial suppliers. You have to be very strategic when you're my size. It's like placing a bet.

I haven't had too much of a problem selling the print [fabric]. The solid stuff, like the linen and the corduroy, you need to have them, but they're not going to sell as quickly. That's where it gets frustrating because [I can only have] so many colors, and somebody walks in with a swatch and they're not necessarily going to match. I can't invest in 25 colors of blue. But you do what you can.

People in Portland are so appreciative, too, of having something in town. They know that by supporting me, I'm going to grow and eventually, they'll be able to walk in with their swatch and find what they're looking for.

How did you find this location?
Actually, finding the building was what brought on the shop pretty much. I knew [the former tenant] Frank [Turek] and knew [his] gallery, and I came in and I had just gotten my loan. I overheard Frank say that he was going to be moving his studio and if I knew someone who was interested, he'd give them the landlord's number. And I said, "Well, I'm looking for a space." In a couple of weeks I was in here building shelves and I was waiting for my stock to arrive.

Interview by Kerry Elson

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